On August 28th, 2011, B&B AT PORTO SELVAGGIO…

  Italy

neo-classical masseria near Porto Selvaggio now home to B&B Santa Chiara

…the beautiful beach cove, I had read about and dreamt about while researching Puglia last winter, which is isolated in a nature preserve just north of Galipoli and west of Nardo’ – is where I just happened upon a small B&B sign (Villa Chiara) that was the happy serendipitous answer to the 3pm question ‘where will I stay tonight?’ – and more lucky still was a cancellation that day in their nicest though really inexpensive room (an austere vaulted space, furnished in a matching set of super fancy dark stained baroque furniture, with a view out to the olive groves and picturesquely abandoned vintage farm equipment) of this neoclassical masseria presided over by the a Roman family: the proprietress born and raised in the house, in whose family it has been for generations, along with her marmalade-making husband who also fills a big container of freshly picked Villa Chiara fruit (grapes, melons, ficchi di India, and figs, which I eat off the trees on my way in and out of the property) each morning to get me through the day after a big family breakfast feast in the courtyard of coffees and teas; said marmalades and fruits; and fresh-baked breads and torts I don’t eat but enjoy smelling and watching others enjoy, all presided over by a big dog and a tiny puppy they just found on the street. (watch their cute video)