On February 3rd, 2011, CIMITERO DEGLI ACATTOLICI AL TESTACCIO…

  landscape

low winter sun through the cypress of Il Cemitero Acatolico di Roma

…or “Cimitero degli Inglesi,” or ‘The Protestant Cemetery in Rome,” or the cemetery of artists and poets – such as Keats and Shelley – is a mysterious hidden place partially enclosed by the Aurelian Walls and in the shadow of the ancient Roman Piramide Cestia which I often pass on my bike, but on this warm sunny afternoon we find the hidden side entry and wander the green burial sanctuary (cemeteries being a frequent point of interest when seeking out visits to the major green spaces appearing on the maps of the cities I find myself in) dating back at least to 1748 when it appears in Nolli’s map of Rome – and is the final resting place for nearly 4000 non-Catholic citizens of mostly Britain, Germany, Greece, Russia, Scandinavia, China, and even some Italians – and having always imagined being sprinkled around some tree when the time comes (or like Andy Warhol – “When I die I don’t want to leave any leftovers. I’d like to disappear. People wouldn’t say he died today, they’d say he disappeared. But I do like the idea of people turning into dust or sand…”), today I am surprised to feel a little desire for a modest piece of stone here with my name on it (or better yet – nameless like Keats) where future visitors can come to pile scavenged oranges – as my friend did today on the grave of the Italian poet whose work she is translating – and then comforting to read that Goethe had similar feelings while on his ‘Italian Journeys‘ almost 225 years ago.